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Puppy Practice Notes

This post is geared toward Puppy 101 clients. You will find notes and video to support your practice assignments here. They are laid out Weeks 1 to 5 but sometimes  I jump around to customize lessons for your puppy. Check out the names of the exercises we worked on in your most recent session and, when in doubt, message me. 

 

Recommended Reading

Read Socializing if your pup is 13 weeks or younger and print the checklist to follow as explained in the post. This is the MOST important thing you can do for a young puppy, way more important than any manners work.

 

Posts about mouthing, crating, husbandry, and housetraining can be found at each of those links.

 

Posts about keeping your puppy entertained can be found here and here.

 

This post explains how often to train, how to proceed, and helps you remember in what order to do things.

 

 

Training Games

I chose lots of video examples to review the things we have practiced. Message me with any questions because your dog might not do what the dog i the video did. In many videos the trainer is using a clicker. We are using a marker word instead, like "Good!"

 

It's Yer Choice /Doggie Zen /Leave it

Start teaching pup not to "mug" your hand for food. Refresher Video 1, Video 2, Video 3.  Step one is just marking the pup for backing off of the handful of food, then an open hand of food, then staying back and making eye contact, then adding your cue.

 

Later, we move the concept down on the floor and to surfaces (e.g. coffee table and counter).

 

Attention 

Practice the Name Game shown in the first 40 seconds here and Outdoor check ins shown here and here

 

Sit / Release

We use luring to get this behavior most of the time and then we add duration and a release cue for a default sit/stay. Check out this video.

 

Hand Target

This is my FAVORITE game. When in doubt, this game is almost always a solution to keeping your dog's attention or interrupting your dog. Video here.

 

Trade / Drop /Give

This is the exercise we did with a kong. (This game is not for dogs who guard objects.) Video refresher for how we did it with a toy. Starts at 2:18. Done correctly, that exercise helps prevent guarding behavior in the future. Here's a detailed article, too.

 

Say Please

The concept of say please is waiting politely in a seated position to make things happen. For instance, sitting makes the tug toy go, makes the ball get thrown, makes the flirt pole toy swing loose, makes my person throw the food. More details here if you need them! 

 

Belly Button Game 

This game sets us up for success with polite greetings and leash walking. Watch this training in action here.

 

Down

We use luring to get this behavior most of the time and then we add duration and a release cue for a default sit/stay. Check out a video refresher here.

 

Wait 

These games are an extension of say please. We are really playing the same game but adding distractions and changing the context. Use this concept to teach waiting for doors to open, food bowls to hit the floor, and leashes to get clipped on.  Video refresher here.

 

Loose Leash Walking

This 3 part series is an excellent overview of the games we played. We have a head start after playing the belly button game, too. For a more detailed review of the information we discussed, read this post.

 

Go to Bed

This technique may be used for going to a bed or into a crate. Refresher here. Another version here. Advanced practice video here.

 

Come Here

By the time we start adding the chase me game to our name game and check in work, you should have had at a least a week practicing the name game. If not, practice some more before adding on. This video shows the chase me game at :42 and this article covers everything we've discussed.

 

Polite Greetings

Once your pup can play the belly button game, we add this game.  An option for really jumpy puppies is the hyper greeter game. When playing the hyper greeter game alone, toss the food when your dog sits/looks away/walks away

 

Then, we add some approaches by various people, like this. When playing polite greetings games without a helper, you can tether pup to something solid and practice approaching. It's like a red light/green light game where calm behavior is a green light for the human to approach and pay with food. Jumping behavior is a red light for the human who should stop, not pay with food, and even retreat if the jumping continues.

 

An advanced version would be pairing waiting at the door with greeting a person politely. (That isn't usually part of the puppy package but sometimes we get that far.) Manage jumping as much as possible to remove the reward of attention. Use a leash, crate, or gate to prevent the jumping. If pup does jump, it's important to avoid, ignore, not make eye contact, not touch, not talk, and preferably immediately exit over a gate or through a door for a time out. 

 

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Services are available in these neighborhoods within the Baltimore metro area: Owings Mills, Randallstown, Reisterstown, Glyndon, Finksburg, Pikesville, Stevenson, Lutherville, Timonium, Cockeysville, Hunt Valley, Roland Park, Riderwood, Ruxton, Mt. Washington, Homeland, Guilford, Hampden, Bolton Hill, Canton, Patterson Park, Charles Village, Mt. Vernon, Elkridge, Oakland Mills, Fort Meade, Pasadena, Ellicott City, Towson, Sparks, parts of Monkton, Phoenix, Jarrettsville, Kingsville, Perry Hall, Parkville, White Marsh, Forest Hill, Hydes, and the southwestern edges of Bel Air. Contact us to ask about any areas not listed and if we don't work there, we can usually provide a referral to a trusted colleague. Not all trainers work in all areas so if we can't provide a trainer in your area at the time you need us, we will try to connect you with someone we trust.